Charging

One problem with putting fuel injection into a car with an old bike engine is that the fuel injection and the car all draw more current than the bike needed, and hence the alternator can struggle to deliver adequate current.

For example, the alternator in the GSXR1100 normally drives:

1 fan (5A)

1 cdi (low current draw, 4A)

and some lights including

1 headlight 5A

1 tail light 0.5A

In the car this increases to;

2 fans (10A)

2 headlights 10A

2 tail lights 1.0A

1 fuel pump 3A

Going fuel injected changes this further to:

1 Lambda probe with heater (3A)

1 set of fuel injectors (3A)

1 ECU unit 1A

1 ignition drivers (3A)

So, to cut a long story short. With lights on even at motorway speeds the result is a battery that is flattened. This doesn't stop the car, but means it won't restart.

A solution needed finding.

I swapped the lights to HID versions which draw less power, and changed lights to LED versions. So that is a start, but its not yet enough. After a drive the fans flatten the battery, so I need to do something about both the fans (probably try them in series instead of parallel, which will drop the current draw to 2.5A from 10A).

After that the only thing left is to improve the alternator. It is a ND (NipponDenso) 25Amp unit (I believe) which works like a car one. Basically the rotor current is regulated, and the outputs from the 3 windings are rectified. This is probably a good design, but by using a regulator/rectifier from a later model bike (in this case the FH012 unit, as promoted on the very impressive http://www.triumphrat.net site (see this posting for more help with this http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html). It isn't clear whether this will work, as their modifications are for bikes with magnet based alternators, but its got to be worth a try. This RR unit seems to be used on the ZX10r (2006 model) which is where mine came from.