Tuesday 11 October 2011

Starter problem



Removed the dB killer, topped up with coolant.

Went to start car. Didn't fire, noticed the LED on the MS showing cold engine wasn't lit. Assumed I had dislodged a spade connector from the temperature sensor. Carried on cranking.

Engine missfired. Stopped cranking.

Tried cranking again and starter just whirred. Damn, hit it with hammer, just whirred.

Turns out that the ECU thought the engine was warm, so supplied less fuel on startup. This cause missfire which resulted in the engine trying to go the wrong way which broke a gear on the back of the clutch (starter gear).

Had to take out the clutch (actually took out 3 clutches as needed to find a replacement gear), not difficult on a motorcycle engine with air-tools. You can even do it with the engine oil in place as long as you can tip the engine a few degrees.

Anyway, it is all back together now. Also removing the dB killer has sorted out the boost. Getting a nice 8psi from 6kRPM (better than the 7kRPMbefore), and this can be controlled nicely with the boost controller. Aim now is to get a steady 8.25psi (155kPa) from 6kRPM to the red line with sensible fueling. Then need to work on the ignition timing and on the acceleration enrichment (which is rubbish at the moment).


Monday 3 October 2011

Of course its the dB killer

The boost was dropping off at high RPM. I asked around and it appeared that this was probably due to pressure from the gases acting on the newly ported wastegate.

So, I put in a stiffer spring, and messed with the boost solenoid control. Both of these things helped, but it seemed difficult to stop it dropping off. Really I want 8psi from 6kRPM to the red-line, maybe dropping slightly at peak RPM to avoid running the injectors at 100% duty cycle. At the moment I get 8psi at 7kRPM, but it trails off linearly with RPM ending around 5psi.

Anyway, I will remove the baffle (dB killer) tonight and see if that does the job. I am pretty confident that things will spin up even bit quicker and that the boost drop will go away as that was the characteristic before I put the baffle in.

Once it is all stable I might see if the engine (clutch really) can handle an atmosphere of boost, which is my personal target.