Not sure whether I mentioned it, but the engine developed a water leak into the oil.
I ignored this for a while hoping it would go away, but once the oil-overflow bottle was actually full of "mayonaisse" I realised that it was time to act.
Turns out the top of the barrels had a nick on them. I did actually know about this when I put the engine together, but my local engine folk didn't have the tooling to sort it (aluminium with steel liners is to difficult for them) so I had hoped it would be fine (and it was for 200miles). Anyway, I found a new place (Paynes in Eynsham) who sorted out the barrels (quick service, very professional too and didn't treat me like an idiot, which is polite).
Here is a photo of the rather interesting crank and con-rods on my existing engine. There have been trimmed down a bit, with the counterweights seriously attacked, and the rods look like they have been shot peened or sintered or something (these are not the normal castings that I have on the other engines). Note also the residual anti-freeze from the water leak (oops).
I also discovered that I had forgotten to install a cam chain guide, so it was good to get the engine opened up.
When rebuilding the engine I reset the cams aiming for stock on inlet and 5deg advanced on the exhaust. This is supposed to give best power on turbo suzuki's, although I need to measure it more precisely to get it right.
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